The Complete Ray-Ban Meta LED Disable Guide

Get everything laid out before you start. You don't want to be hunting for tools with a half-disassembled pair of $300 glasses on the table.

• Dremel / rotary tool with fine bit
• UV resin (clear)
• UV lamp (nail curing lamp works)
• Precision screwdriver set
• Magnifying glass or jeweler's loupe
• Isopropyl alcohol (90%+)
• Microfiber cloth
• Compressed air canister

Estimated time: 30-45 minutes for first-timers. If you've done fine electronics work before, more like 15-20.

The recording indicator LED sits on the right temple (the arm that goes over your right ear), near the front hinge. It's the small white light that blinks when recording starts.

• Carefully remove or loosen the frame components to expose the LED housing. On most Meta models, you'll need to work a precision flathead or spudger along the seam of the temple arm.
• Once exposed, you'll see a small protective glass or plastic cover over the LED itself. Crack this cover using a fine precision tool. A dental pick works well here.
• Be gentle. The housing is small and the surrounding components are fragile. You're not trying to pry anything apart. Controlled, deliberate pressure.

Now you're looking at the exposed LED. It's a tiny surface-mount component, usually white or pale yellow.

• Set your Dremel or rotary tool to its lowest speed setting. You want precision, not power.
• Using the finest bit you have, carefully drill out the LED. The goal is to remove the LED element itself without damaging the PCB trace beneath it (yet, that comes in Step 4).
• Work slowly. You are millimeters from the camera module. If you slip, you're buying new glasses.
• Once the LED is out, use compressed air to clear any debris from the housing. Tiny fragments of glass or LED material can cause problems if they migrate into the electronics.

This is the critical step. Skip this and the whole mod is useless.

Meta's firmware is designed to detect if the LED has been covered, blocked, or disconnected. If the firmware sees the LED circuit is open (broken), it disables recording entirely. Putting tape over the LED, painting it, or just knocking it off won't work. The glasses will refuse to record.

What you need to do is sever the circuit trace in a specific way:

• Locate the two solder pads where the LED was connected to the PCB.
• Using a fine-tip soldering iron or a precision blade (X-Acto knife), cut the copper trace that leads to the LED's anode (positive) pad.
• Then bridge the two LED pads together with a tiny solder blob or a small wire jumper.
• This creates a short circuit where the LED used to be. The firmware sends current, detects that current is flowing (because of the short), and concludes the LED is "working." But there's no LED to emit light. The current just passes through.

Test before sealing: power on the glasses and initiate a recording. If recording starts without any visible LED, you got it. If the glasses refuse to record or throw an error, your bridge isn't making good contact, or you cut the wrong trace.

The LED is gone and the circuit is handled. Now you need to make it look like nothing happened.

• Fill the empty LED housing cavity with clear UV resin. Use a toothpick or fine applicator to control the amount. You want it flush with the frame surface, not overflowing.
• Cure under your UV lamp for 60-90 seconds. Most nail curing lamps work perfectly for this. The resin should harden completely and become crystal clear.
• Clean any excess resin around the edges with a microfiber cloth dampened with isopropyl alcohol.
• Reassemble any frame components you loosened in Step 2.

The result: a smooth, flush surface where the LED used to be. Nearly invisible unless someone knows exactly where to look. The glasses record normally, with no indicator light.